By Sue Bergstrom for Valdez City News –
While the fact that ice climbers like Valdez may not be news to most residents, many of them may not be aware of the history and the one-of-a-kind nature of the Valdez Ice Climbing Festival that takes place in Keystone Canyon every year. It’s one of the oldest and one of the biggest events of its kind.
It was started in 1983 by Andy Embick and Brian Teale, who ran it through 2002. In 2003 the festival was taken over by the Ice Pixies and became a women’s event. But that didn’t last. The men showed up anyway and eventually everyone was climbing again. This year’s festival was the biggest ever, attracting one hundred and sixty-seven climbers from all over, including Teale. Climbers came from Canada, Argentina and all over the United States. That’s an amazing turnout for an event that takes place in a small town in Alaska. Conditions in the canyon are kept current on http://www.mountainproject.com . Mountain Project is the largest climbing guild in the world and that’s part of the key. The event draws people through Facebook, the internet and word of mouth. Climbers talk to other climbers, they look to see where they’ve been, they trade stories. And Valdez has awesome climbing.
Nick Weicht, who has run the event since 2008, says that Keystone Canyon is an ideal location, with six hundred foot waterfalls just off the road, easy access to food and lodging and enough attendees to ensure you a climbing partner. Routes are accessible to varying skill levels and there are plenty of places to climb.
Nick stressed the importance of having climbing areas that people can get to and are safe, so the less experienced needn’t feel excluded. Clinics are offered for novices. An additional draw is the Tunnel Wall where participants can dry tool climb, which is rock climbing with ice gear. Climber Raeann Krugger described it as, “rocks and frozen moss…very difficult but very fun.”
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This year’s festival started with prepping for the climbers; bringing up gear and firewood and placing anchors, followed by a meet and greet at a local restaurant. Saturday was described in the official schedule as follows:
• Climbing extravaganza on the Keystone Classics
• Fixed ropes on Bridal Veil
• Fixed Ropes on Keystone Green Steps
• Poker Climb
• Evening Slide Show, Live Music
Sunday included more climbing on Bridal Veil Falls and Keystone Green Steps and some speed climbing on Hanging Cloud. Later there was a ‘huge bonfire’, spaghetti feed and dance party and the awards presentation. Monday, the last day featured breakfast at a local restaurant followed by dry tooling at the Tunnel Wall and an optional dinner for those with no need to hit the road early. According to Nick, every hotel room in town was in use over the weekend with some people ending up in a bed and breakfast. His final word on the subject was, “I’ll be smiling about that weekend for years to come.”
Photos by Valdez Ice Climbing-Festiva and L J Steele Photography
